So I went surfing today. Mick, a laid back Aussie dude, was my instructor.
He was pretty cool…taught me quite a bit. But he pretty much kicked my
ass. The breaks here are beach breaks and they come every 3 to 5 seconds so
you are constantly fighting the water. Everything hurts right
now…especially my back and my legs (I think from walking through the
strong current).
I did pretty well. Got up a lot (even on my first try which was pretty kick
ass). But of course, I was only riding whitewash. Mick left and I went out
twice more (took a break in between). On the last run though my foot hit
something furry and I got really freaked out so I got out of the water
sooner than I had wanted to. I’m going to keep at it the next couple of days
and see how it goes….but the whole surfing experience has really made me
appreciate snowboarding so much more (it just came so much easier to me).
This town is super quiet, but I think I’m finally starting to get out of my
go-go-go mode and relax. Today was the first day I wasnt bored part of the
day and like I said, I think it just comes with allowing yourself to wind
down.
The place I moved to this morning is pretty cool. It has a pool table, ping
pong table, a swimming pool, etc. The pool is gorgeous. After I was done
surfing (I went for about 3 hours), I came back and swam around for a bit.
The ocean water isn’t really good for swimming since it is so rough. Plus,
it’s pretty warm, so it’s not refreshing at all. Only myself and a funny
looking lizard were lounging by the pool (As I said, it’s pretty quiet).
Strangely, I’ve gotten used to the reptiles here.
Anyway, the next couple of days should be eventful. I believe I’m going to a
bonfire tonight, more surfing tomorrow, and then it’s ”Ladies Night” at
Mar Azul….which means chicks drink for free all night. Woohoo!
Good Times & Tan Lines 